Thanksgiving in Wartime
Thanksgiving “Over There”
The story of Thanksgiving and America’s armed forces
by Peggy M. Baker, Director Emerita, Pilgrim Society
The first national annual Thanksgiving was proclaimed in 1863 by Abraham Lincoln. Amid the wrenching strife of the Civil War, the tradition of a national holiday centered on home and family and peace was established.
From that first Civil War Thanksgiving to today, sometimes against overwhelming odds, Americans have always found a way to celebrate Thanksgiving. Troops “over there” forged new families with their comrades. Families back home endured fear and loneliness with grace and courage, in hope for the future. During peacetime, special efforts are made so that American armed forces stationed away from home have a traditional “family” celebration.
THE CIVIL WAR
The dispute over slavery, as well as rivalry between northern industrial and southern agrarian economies, divided the United States in the mid 1800s. Hostilities began in 1861, shortly after the election of Abraham Lincoln, an Illinois Republican, as President.
Early Confederate successes on land were balanced by a Union naval blockade of southern ports. The war did not turn until 1863 when Lee was defeated at Gettysburg. It took another two years of bloody warfare to establish final Union victory. The cease-fire was signed in May of 1865, one month after Lincoln was assassinated. Before its conclusion, 3/4 of a million men had died and another 1/2 million were wounded. Three million men had served in the Union forces and 750,000 in the Confederate forces. No American family escaped this disastrous conflict.
During the Civil War, rations for the Union troops were ample. Some foods were not, however, available in the field. Even when full rations were provided, they were not nutritious or appetizing: a diet of hardtack, salt meat and no vegetables quickly leads to scurvy.
The food needs of the armed forces were enormous. The scale of purchasing gave plentiful chances for swindling. The defects of the system lay primarily, however, in unsupervised or inexperienced contractors and supply officers. Canned foods, an economical and reliable source of nutrition, were first used during the Civil War. Condensed milk, invented by Gail Borden in 1856, was occasionally available as were desiccated (or in the language of the troops, “desecrated”) fruits and vegetables.
The first national annual Thanksgiving of 1863 was not officially observed by the United States military. Providing a special Thanksgiving dinner for the troops was beyond the capabilities of the Commissary.
Individual units, however, particularly those with New England roots, did find their own unofficial ways to celebrate the day. Special dinners were organized, and toasts to absent family and friends were drunk.
Thanksgiving 1864 did not go similarly unrecognized. The Union League Club of New York City launched a public campaign to provide Thanksgiving dinner for Union soldiers and sailors:
We desire that on the twenty-fourth day of November there shall be no soldier in the Army of the Potomac, the James, the Shenandoah, and no sailor in the North Atlantic Squadron who does not receive tangible evidence that those for whom he is periling his life, remember him…
We ask primarily for donations of cooked poultry and other proper meats, as well as for mince pies, sausages and fruits… To those who are unable to send donations in kind, we appeal for generous contributions in money.
The response was overwhelming. In 3 weeks, the Club collected over $57,000 towards the purchase of 146,586 pounds of poultry. Donations of an additional 225,000 pounds of poultry were received, along with an enormous quantity of other meat, cakes, gingerbread, pickles, apples, vegetables, cheese, and mince pies.
Captain George F. Noyes reported from General Phil Sheridan’s Army of the Shenandoah:
The want of proper appliances compelled most of the men to broil or stew their turkeys, but everyone seemed fully satisfied, and appreciated the significance of this sympathetic thank offering from the loyal North. One soldier said to me, “It isn’t the turkey, but the idea that we care for,” and he thus struck the key-note of the whole festival.
THANKSGIVING DAY 1863
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
…In the midst of a civil war of unequaled magnitude and severity, which has sometimes seemed to foreign states to invite and to provoke their aggression, peace has been preserved with all nations, order has been maintained, the laws have been respected and obeyed, and harmony has prevailed everywhere, except in the theater of military conflict, while that theater has been greatly contracted by the advancing armies and navies of the Union… …I do therefore invite my fellow-citizens in every part of the United States, and also those who are at sea and those who are sojourning in foreign lands, to set apart and observe the last Thursday of November next as a day of thanksgiving and praise to our beneficent Father who dwelleth in the heavens.
– ABRAHAM LINCOLN
THE SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR
The United States became involved in the war between Cuban nationalists and colonial Spain when the Maine, a battleship sent to Havana to safeguard American interests, was blown up. The United States declared war on Spain in April of 1898.
Within a few weeks, Spanish troops had been ejected from both Cuba and from the Spanish possession of Puerto Rico, gaining fame for Teddy Roosevelt and his “Rough Riders.” Meanwhile, Admiral George Dewey and the American fleet in the Pacific destroyed the Spanish fleet in Manila harbor, ending Spanish rule in the Philippines. Active hostilities ceased by October of 1898. The Spanish-American War was America’s first military venture overseas. Problems of transport were overwhelming; inspection was totally inadequate. Food, especially the notorious “embalmed beef,” was spoiled by heat and there were numerous cases of deadly food poisoning among the American troops in Cuba.
The need for reform was obvious. A clearer understanding of nutrition led to more balanced rations. Ordering procedures were upgraded and bureaus combined for increased efficiency in transportation. The first school for military cooks was established. Better cooking utensils and mess gear were developed, field ranges replaced campfires. Improvements brought about by the Spanish-American War made future celebrations of military Thanksgivings possible.
THANKSGIVING DAY 1898
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
…The skies have been for a time darkened by the cloud of war, but as we were compelled to take up the sword in the cause of humanity we are permitted to rejoice that the conflict has been of brief duration and the losses we have had to mourn, though grievous and important, have been so few, considering the great results accomplished, as to inspire us with gratitude and praise to the Lord of Hosts…
– WILLIAM McKINLEY
SPANISH-AMERICAN WAR MILITARY RECIPE FIELD BREAD
Take five quarts of flour and one and two-thirds tablespoonfuls of yeast powder; mix thoroughly while dry, adding a little salt to suit the taste; then mix in well one tablespoonful of dripping or lard; then add water, and in small quantities at a time, until a biscuit dough is made; knead slightly. Take a Government mess pan and cut off about one inch and a half of the rim, leaving a rough edge. Into this mess pan put dough enough to fill it two-third full; cover with another mess pan. A hole should previously have been dug in the ground eighteen or twenty inches in diameter and depth, and a fire burned in it five or six hours. Then take out all the cinders except a bed two or three inches deep; upon this place the mess pans and surround and cover them with hot cinders; over all spread a covering of earth, and leave for five or six hours. The bread will not burn, as in rising it will not reach the bottom of the upper mess pan. The roughcut edges of the low mess pan afford egress to any gases that may be disengaged.
From: Manual for Army Cooks, Government Printing Office, 1896.
WORLD WAR I
Large-scale war broke out in Europe in 1914, but America maintained its neutrality for several years. After six American ships were sunk by German submarines, President Woodrow Wilson asked Congress to declare war on Germany. The first American troops reached France in June 1917. Over 2,000,000 American soldiers were sent to France before the end of the war in 1918 and nearly 2,000,000 more were in training at home for service abroad if needed.
During the First World War, special efforts were needed to feed five distinct groups: American troops stationed in the U.S., American troops abroad, the U.S. civilian “home front,” European allied troops, and European civilians. Herbert Hoover was given sweeping power to set prices and to take measures against hoarding and profiteering. Americans were urged to save on sugar, wheat, fat, and meat. Civilian Thanksgiving recipes reflected this patriotic austerity, as pumpkin pies were sweetened with molasses and served with sugarless ice cream.
There was an appreciable upgrading of the standard overseas ration. The “doughboy” diet now included a greater variety of food and a wider use of fresh foods, even in the field. The military’s ability to produce food and send it to the troops overseas was greatly improved. American troops celebrated Thanksgiving at camps in the United States and overseas during the First World War. Soldiers and sailors from every region of America, men who often had little in common, gathered together to celebrate a unifying and patriotic holiday, a day that was uniquely American. This unifying theme was emphasized by the military Thanksgiving menu, a menu that centered almost entirely on “traditional” New England food.
THANKSGIVING 1917
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
It has long been the honored custom of our people to turn in the fruitful autumn of the year in praise and thanksgiving to Almighty God for His many blessings and mercies to us as a nation. That custom we can follow now even in the midst of the tragedy of a world shaken by war and immeasurable disaster, in the midst of sorrow and great peril, because even amidst the darkness that has gathered about us we can see the great blessings God has bestowed upon us, blessings that are better than mere peace of mind and prosperity of enterprise.
– WOODROW WILSON
WORLD WAR I THANKSGIVING ON THE HOMEFRONT
“What are you giving so that others may live? Eat less wheat, meat, fats, sugar. Send more to Europe or they will starve.”
SUGAR-SAVING MOCK MINCEMEAT FILLING FOR PIE
1 cup cranberries, chopped 1 cup raisins 1 cup corn syrup 2 tablespoons flour mixed with 1/4 cup cold water 2 tablespoons fat
Mix all. Bring to boiling point and place in double crust pastry.
From: Foods That Will Win the War & How to Cook Them, by C. Houston & Alberta M. Goudiss. World Syndicate Company, 1918
ARMY COOKING 1916
PIE CRUST FOR 12 DOUBLE-CRUST 9″ PIES
4 1/2 pounds of flour 2 1/2 pounds of lard 1 oz salt
Rub lard and flour together in the hands and mix well; add sufficient water to make a moist dough. Have everything cool and work as little as possible. P
PUMPKIN PIE FILLING FOR 12-15 PIES
25 pounds pumpkin 6 pounds sugar 20 eggs 1 nutmeg 1/8 ounce cloves 1/8 ounce ginger 1 ounce salt 2 cans evaporated milk.
Peel and clean the pumpkin; cut into pieces about 2 ounces each; pour 1 inch of water into a boiler, then put in the pumpkin. One inch of water will be sufficient, even though the boiler be filled with pumpkin, as pumpkin contains much water. Boil slowly until done, about 40 minutes. Then mash well, add the beaten eggs, sugar, milk, and spices, and mix well; make the pies without a top crust, and bake slowly. This recipe may be improved by the addition of a small amount of cream.
From: Manual for Army Cooks. Government Printing Office, 1916.
BETWEEN THE WARS
After World War I, the country turned its back on Wilson’s “internationalism” and tried to avoid political entanglements in the wider world. The United States continued, however, to be involved in significant commercial interests overseas.
American entrepreneurs continued to pursue their business interests (on occasion, with military support) in the Pacific, and in Central and South America.
The number of American military personnel, which had reached a peak of 2,396,000 in 1918, generally hovered around 137,000 throughout the more peaceful 1920s and 1930s. This smaller military force developed a special camaraderie during the 1920s and 1930s. A “family” feeling was promoted by military Thanksgiving celebrations with abundant food and festive printed souvenir menus.
WORLD WAR II
Germany invaded Poland in 1939. Great Britain and France declared war on Germany, a war which soon widened as military operations spread through Europe, Asia, Africa and Russia. America entered the war on December 8, 1941. American forces invaded North Africa in 1942, eventually sweeping into Italy through Sicily. In 1944, American troops landed on the beaches of France. Germany surrendered on May 8, 1945. The Japanese offensive in the Pacific was brought to a halt in 1942. American forces advanced slowly and painfully, reentering the Philippines in late 1944. Japan surrendered on September 2, 1945.
Over 12,000,000 Americans (including over 250,000 women) served in the armed forces during World War II.
The scope of the war and the number and diversity of overseas operations presented an enormous challenge for food supply, transport and distribution. The logistics of food supply could not be allowed to dictate military strategy. Additional planning and coordination were essential.
Both at home and overseas, the military attempted not only to feed the troops, but to feed them well. As Bill Mauldin noted, however, the food got worse the closer you got to the front. Overseas units still depended largely on canned food, dehydrated fruits, and “powdered” eggs. The exceptions were Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day, when extraordinary efforts were made to get holiday food to combat areas.
On the home front, food rationing was instituted. Once again, American families curtailed their holiday celebrations for the sake of their troops overseas.
THANKSGIVING DAY, 1943
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
God’s help to us has been great in this year of march towards world-wide liberty. In brotherhood with warriors of other United Nations our gallant men have won victories, have freed our homes from fear, have made tyranny tremble, and have laid the foundation for freedom of life in a world which will be free. Our forges and hearths and mills have wrought well; and our weapons have not failed. Our farmers, Victory gardeners, and crop volunteers have gathered and stored a heavy harvest in the barns and bins and cellars. Our total food production for the year is the greatest in the annals of our country…
-FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
WORLD WAR II
THANKSGIVING ON THE HOME FRONT
NUT-SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE
4 to 6 sweet potatoes
2/3 cup dark corn or maple syrup
1 orange, sliced
1/2 teaspoon grated orange rind
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1/3 cup chopped nut meats
Peel sweet potatoes; then slice into a buttered casserole, arranging them in layers with orange slices and chopped nut meats. Dot each layer with butter and season with salt and pepper. Pour syrup over them. Bake in moderate oven for 1 hour. A little water or orange juice may be added if needed. Serves 4 to 6.
From: Cooking on a Ration, by Marjorie Mills. Houghton Mifflin, 1943.
MILITARY COOKING 1941 – TURKEY, ROAST
70 pounds turkey, undrawn or 50 pounds dressed and
4 pounds onions, minced, browned
2 pounds fat, butter preferred
15 pounds bread crumbs
2 pounds flour
Singe, then clean the turkey well, saving heart, liver, and gizzard, which should be cooked and then minced for use in gravy or dressing. To make the dressing, moisten the bread crumbs with water, mix with onions and giblets, and season with pepper and salt, sage, thyme, or other spices. The bread may be soaked in oyster liquor and oysters added to the dressing. Celery, currants, or raising may be used instead of onions. Lemon juice or nuts may be added. Stuff the turkey well with dressing. Sew up with strong thread and tie wings down to the body. Make a batter with the flour and fat, season with salt and pepper and rub the turkey with it before placing in oven. Roast in a slow own (200-250 F. — 18 to 20 counts). After the turkey has been in the oven about 20 minutes, add a little hot water and baste every 15 minutes until done. This generally requires about 2 1/2 hours, depending upon the quality of the fowl. Last few minutes of cooking should be at high heat to brown the outside of the turkey. Carve and serve hot with gravy.
From: Manual of Mess Management, Military Service Publishing Co., 1941.
THE COLD WAR: KOREA TO VIETNAM
World War II brought a shifting balance of power. The military draft, allowed to lapse for a year in 1947, was revived as the “Cold War” intensified. The U.S. and the Communist bloc met in combat in Korea during the 1950s and in Vietnam during the 1960s and 1970s. North Korean Communists invaded South Korea in 1950. Ultimately, North Korea was driven back by American and United Nations forces. President Eisenhower signed a cease-fire in 1953.
THANKSGIVING DAY, 1953
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
As a Nation much blessed, we feel impelled at harvest time to follow the tradition handed down by our Pilgrim fathers of pausing from our labors for one day to render thanks to Almighty God for His bounties. Now that the year is drawing to a close, once again it is fitting that we incline our thoughts to His mercies and offer to Him our special prayers of gratitude… Especially are we grateful this year for the truce in battle-weary Korea, which gives to anxious men and women throughout the world the hope that there may now be an enduring peace.
– DWIGHT D. EISENHOWER
An “advisory” involvement in the war between non-Communist South and Communist North Vietnam grew into a heavy American military commitment in the 1960s. The war against North Vietnam was protracted and inconclusive, ending in 1975 with the withdrawal of U.S. troops and the fall of Saigon.
Combat rations in Korea and Vietnam were an improved version of World War II rations. Even for the front line troops, however, combat rations were not served at Thanksgiving. Troops were rotated off the front so that they could enjoy a full, hot Thanksgiving dinner behind the lines. The services made an intensified effort to serve hot food in the field whenever possible. During the Korean conflict, men in combat areas were usually given two hot meals a day. By 1967, 93% of the meals served to the troops in Vietnam were hot and primarily fresh.
A new coordinated research effort aimed at improving both nutritional content and food preservation was led by the U.S. Army Soldier Systems Command, Natick (Massachusetts) Research Development & Engineering Center (“Natick Labs”). This coordination led to the creation of the Armed Forces Recipe Service in 1968. The resulting standardized recipes did away with separate cookbooks for the various services.
THANKSGIVING DAY, 1967
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
…Over the years, we have made Thanksgiving a unique national occasion. Thanking God for His goodness, we thank Him as well for the promise and achievement of America. Our reasons for gratitude are almost without number…. Much as we are grateful for these material and spiritual blessings, we are conscious, in this year, of special sorrows and disappointments. We are engaged in a painful conflict in Asia, which was not of our choosing, and in which we are involved in fidelity to a sacred promise to help a nation which has been the victim of aggression. We are proud of the spirit of our men who are risking their lives on Asian soil. We pray that their sacrifice will be redeemed in an honorable peace and the restoration of a land long torn by war…
-LYNDON B. JOHNSON
POST-COLD WAR
In 1990, Iraq invaded Kuwait and threatened to invade Saudi Arabia. When Iraq refused to withdraw despite an international naval blockade, war became imminent. Between November 1990 and January 1991, U.S. forces in the Middle East doubled to 440,000. President Bush spent Thanksgiving 1990 in the Persian Gulf with the American troops. The Gulf War opened in January with a series of air attacks known as “Operation Desert Storm.” The February ground offensive resulted in the almost-immediate liberation of Kuwait.
American troops were stationed in many parts of the world. In addition to Thanksgivings celebrated by the troops at established bases both in this country and overseas, American forces involved in peace-keeping missions spent recent Thanksgivings in places as diverse and as far from home as Haiti and Bosnia.
THANKSGIVING DAY, 1991
By the President of the United States: a Proclamation
…As we continue the Thanksgiving tradition, a tradition cherished by every generation of Americans, we reflect in a special way on the blessings of the past year. When this Nation and its coalition partners took up arms in a last-resort effort to repel aggression in the Persian Gulf, we were spared the terrible consequences of a long and protracted struggle. Indeed, the millions of people who prayed for a quick end to the fighting saw those prayers answered with a swiftness and certainty that exceeded all expectations. During the past year, we have also witnessed the demise of communism and welcomed millions of courageous people into the community of free nations.
-GEORGE BUSH
In the 1990s, each of the four branches of the U.S. Armed Services (Army, Air Force, Navy, and Marines) created their own Thanksgiving Day menus. But they all used the same recipes, created and tested by a centralized recipe development department at “Natick Labs.” The 1500 recipes and guidelines in the Armed Forces Recipe Service File were maintained and developed by the food technologists at “Natick Labs” to meet the nutritional requirements and consumer preferences of the military population.
These Thanksgiving menus remained surprisingly unchanged from those of the past. An analysis of 100 military menus, from 1917 to 1997 and from Boston to Saudi Arabia, show that 100% of the menus offered turkey, 98% offered dressing, 92% offered cranberry sauce, and 89% offered gravy. 96% of the menus offered pie, with 81% offering pumpkin pie. In the grand military Thanksgiving Day tradition, some things do remain the same!