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THE WHARVES
OF PLYMOUTH
Edited by Mr. Warren P. Strong
from notes compiled by the late Fred A. Jenks
Pilgrim Society
Note, Series One, Number Three, 1955 |
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The wharves along Water Street
are listed as they appeared about 1870, beginning with the most northerly, Jacksons
Wharf, which occupied about the same position as the present (1955) State Pier. At that
time, there was no roadway along the shore north of this point.
Hedges Wharf is the wharf built over and around Plymouth Rock. After it came into
the possession of the Pilgrim Society it was renamed Pilgrim Wharf.
Mr. Jenks sources appear to have been Daviss Ancient Landmarks and
Thachers History of Plymouth and his own recollections, which
bring the story down to the demolition of the wharves and the re-landscaping of the
waterfront by the Tercentenary Commission in 1920.
The map is taken from the Atlas of Plymouth County, published by Geo. H. Walker
and Company, 1879.
JACKSONS WHARF
Jacksons Wharf was the first wharf north of the foot of North Street. William T.
Davis says in his Ancient Landmarks of Plymouth
Jacksons Wharf was built in about
1750 by Thomas Jackson and Thomas Foster. In 1765 Mr. Foster gave a deed to Thomas
Hubbard, then treasurer of Harvard College. In 1774 it was sold by the College to Thomas
Jackson. It remained in the Jackson Family and bore the name of Jacksons Wharf. |
Jacksons Wharf was built in about 1750 by Thomas
Jackson and Thomas Foster. In 1765 Mr. Foster gave a deed to Thomas Hubbard, then
treasurer of Harvard College. In 1774 it was sold by the College to Thomas Jackson. It
remained in the Jackson Family and bore the name of Jacksons Wharf.
After 1870 it was little used. The lumber yard of George Jackson included this wharf, and
its principal use was for the discharge of lumber cargoes from Maine. It was much used by
the boys of that time as a swimming place, and occasionally a "Grand-Banker," a
fishing vessel of that period, lay up there for the winter.
The coffer-dam in which the lower section of the Red Light (Bug Light) was assembled and
floated to its present position, was built on Jacksons Wharf.
A dock of less importance stood next to Jacksons Wharf. Davis Ancient
Landmarks says
| The dock next south between Jacksons and Long wharf was called Tribbles
dock. It derived its name from Joseph Tribble who married a daughter of Thomas Jackson and
lived in a house near where the Jackson office stood. |
It is occupied now by a restaurant. The boys of 1870 often called the
wharf Battles Wharf. Mr. Battles had the care of the lumber yard.
All the property, wharf and lumber yard, was destroyed when the Plymouth and Brockton
Street Railway power station and Craigs Wharf were built. These new buildings were
made possible by the extension of Water Street. Both were destroyed in 1920 when Plymouth
harbor front was abandoned. The State Wharf now marks the site of Craigs Wharf.
LONG WHARF
The upper part of Long Wharf was built by J. Murdock. He obtained permission from the
town in 1732. In 1746 he sold it to Isaac Lothrop. It was afterwards owned by Thomas
Davis, and finally by Thomas and William Jackson. They held it at the time the first
steamship company was formed in 1829. The wharf was then purchased by the steamship
company and extended one thousand feet. After running two years without success, it was
abandoned.
Daviss Ancient Landmarks, p. 292 |
The one thousand food extension brought the end of the wharf to the
North Guzzle.
In 1870 there was little water in Plymouth Harbor at low tide. Wearing short rubber boots,
a boy could walk from Town Brook to Long Wharf without difficulty. The stream flowing by
the ends of the other wharves was the water from Town Brook.
Dr. James Thacher in his History of Plymouth writes of Long Wharf in 1829, that
it extends nine hundred feet into the harbor "Having a plank flooring it
affords a beautiful promenade, which is much frequented in summer by social parties who
wish to enjoy a pleasant view and refreshing sea breeze."
In 1870 the wharf was very different. The additional length built for the steamer had
fallen into ruin. Nothing was left but the decaying piles, standing at different angles,
unsightly, and a peril to harbor navigation.
About 1910 the piles were removed. The harbor had been excavated and the wharf put into
good shape. It had become the property of the Litchfield Brothers, and the Boston and
Nantasket Steam Ship Company boats made daily trips in the summer months.
Until the building of the large coal pockets and the establishment of steam hoisting
engines, most of the coal and iron was landed at Long Wharf. There Mr. Joseph Townes was
stevedore.
Afterward the so-called dug-out was dredged from the turn of the channel to Long Wharf,
and sometimes a vessel-load of sisal fiber landed on Long Wharf and was carted to the
Plymouth Cordage Company.
HEDGES WHARF
Hedges Wharf was built by Isaac Lothrop in about 1749 and remained in the possession
of the Lothrop family and of Barnabas Hedge, its representative by inheritance until 1853,
when it was sold to George Simmons. In 1853 and 1859, by two deeds, it was sold to Andrew
L. Russell. The same year it was sold to Hammatt Billings with the condition that Plymouth
Rock should never be removed, and that the land above the dock should never by occupied by
any structure not connected with a monument to the Pilgrims. In 1866 it was sold to the
Pilgrim Society with all the land above the face of the bulkhead on each side of the
wharf, reserving a way to the wharf on either side but not within fourteen feet of the
monument.
Davis, Ancient Landmarks, p. 292 |
The monument, which was the canopy over the Rock, was destroyed in 1920.
The wharf below the bulkheads was afterwards sold to William H. Nelson.
Mr. William T. Davis, in Ancient Landmarks, states that within his memory he has
seen the wharf
| burdened with merchandise from all parts of the world. Oil from the Pacific Ocean
discharges from the Arbella, Triton, and Fortune; molasses from
the West Indies from the brig Hannah; cargoes of bar iron from Rotterdam and
Antwerp, discharged from the Cyclops and Ganges. Also the packets Splendid,
under Captain George Simmons, and the Eagle, under Captain Richard Pope, had
their berths and flew their flags of arrival and departure. |
In 1870 the canopy over the Plymouth Rock had long been built, and the
business viewed by Mr. Davis had long since departed. There were two buildings left on the
wharf, one owned by Mr. Franklin Cobb. Here the schooner Annie B. Jacobs unloaded
cargoes of southern corn, and in cold weather brought a few oysters from the South and
loaded pine box boards. The loft, or upper story, was the rigging loft of Mr. Peter Smith.
The first floor of the second building was used for packing fish, and here the large fish
caught in the spring were cleaned and cured. Herring and mackerel were also salted in
barrels and shipped South.
The loft was little used. Sometimes the sails and dories of the fishing fleet were stored
there, and an ambitious man would build a dory or a sprit-sail boat there during the
winter. There was one builder who was always noted for his work because of its strength
rather than its beauty. He proved it in a very careless way. In lowering the boat on
completion, his fall parted and the boat struck directly on its stern. Nothing gave way;
not even the paint started. His reputation as a careful builder was permanent.
At the time of the ownership of Weston and Harlow, coal dealers, large bins were erected
at the end of the wharf and a steam hoister was installed. Before that time, most of the
coal was unloaded on Long Wharf. A horse furnished the power. The coal schooner Modesty
under Captain Nickerson often arrived there and sometimes a fishing schooner lay up there
during the winter. Later, after the Pilgrim Society secured complete control of the wharf,
all this work ceased.
At this time there was a pavilion on the beach just north of the turn of the channel. To
this point ran a little steamer built as a catamaran. A catamaran was a steam driven boat
having two hulls, her propeller being between the hulls. It was built to run on a canal
for the purpose of preventing the washing away of the canal banks. The boat was not a
success at this work, but it made an ideal boat to run to Plymouth Beach. It had much deck
room for its draft, and it did a good business. The boat and pavilion were both destroyed
in the storm of 1898, when the steamer Portland was also lost. This queer craft was built
by Mr. Porter Keen on North River.
Hedges Wharf went the way of all Plymouth wharves when Plymouth Center ceased to be
a sea port in 1920.
DAVIS WHARF
Mr. William T. Davis states in his Ancient Landmarks that this wharf was
| built probably by David Turner and sold by Mr. Turner to Thomas and William Davis, and
at the death of the latter in 1826, his heirs owned the whole property. In 1845 it was
sold to Mr. Nathaniel Russell. At this wharf the Polly, a Boston packet with
Joseph Cooper, master, and the Argo of Captain Sylvanus Churchill, had their
berths. |
In 1870 there was a fish market at the head of this wharf and here they
boiled the lobsters that Captain Ransome, Captain Burgess, and the Watsons from
Clarks Island, brought in. This market was owned by Captain Jesse Atwood, who was
also a large owner in the lobster smacks which carried the live lobsters from Plymouth to
Boston and around the Cape to New York. The smacks were built with wells through which the
salt water could circulate.
The J. R. Atwood was a schooner-rigged vessel, and a smart one. Captain Anthony
Atwood sailed her and made the run to New York. The stories told of her speed were many,
and besides, she was a good boat in bad weather. There were also the Climax,
sailed by Captain Ellis, and the Grace Darling.
These smack captains probably knew their way over the shoals better than most mariners.
Captain Ellis was very efficient. there was little of the Sound (Long Island) and few
ports he could not make in bad weather. One man who had sailed with him on many trips once
said that on nights when he was at the wheel, the captain used to come on deck and say,
"How does such a light bear?" and again,
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"How does that light bear? Now throw your 1 lead. Got twelve fathoms
water, have you not?"
"Yes, Sir."
"Sandy bottom?"
"Yes, Sir."
"See that you remember it some night when it is so thick that you can see
nothing,"
and he would go below. |
Back of Atwoods fish market was the cooper shop of Gideon Holbrook. He made
water casks, oil casks, all tight work, and the large fish drums (a cask large in diameter
but not very high) into which salt fish were packed for southern shipments. The upper
floor was a sail loft once belonging to Daniel Goddard, but it was carried on by a
Richmond, an uncle of John Richmond, whom many in 1940 remembered. You could see the
bright floor, made so by the dragging of the canvas, the white overalls of the sailmakers,
the smell of wax and tar.
There is little more to say about this wharf, except that the Boston packet made her berth
there. It was the schooner Eliza Jane, sailed by Captain Nightingale, who knew
the harbor yes, every flat -- for he had been aground on them all. He had a crew of
three men, two men and a cook. Two of them did not dare to go aloft. The third man dared
to go, but he did not know what to do when he got there. This was told many times by the
captain himself.
After the Pilgrim Society secured complete control of Hedges Wharf, the coal packets
were moved to this wharf, and all was ended in 1920.
NELSONS WHARF
From Daviss Landmarks :
| Nelsons Wharf, probably the oldest of the Plymouth wharves, was built in 1760,
by Mr. Nathaniel Warren and, according to tradition, was erected of timber cut on Plymouth
Beach. |
In 1706 (the year it was built), one-half interest was sold to John
Watson, and in 1716, Mr. Watson and James Warren, son of Nathaniel, sold to John Cushman.
In 1724, it was transferred to Robert Brown, who sold it in 1756 to Edward Gray. In 1762,
Mr. Gray sold it to George Watson and Nathaniel Goodwin, who sold one-quarter to William
and three-quarters to Joseph Bartlett.
There were various changes, but at a later date the Nelson share was owned by William H.
Nelson and Jesse Harlow, who married his sister.
In 1870 it was known as Nelsons Wharf. William N. Nelson was a director and for a
time, president of the Old Colony Bank. For many years he was also chairman of the Board
of Selectmen, and also served as Moderator of Town meetings. Jesse Harlow (Deacon Jesse he
was usually called) was an able business man, genial, kind, loved by all that knew him. He
was Deacon of the Church of the Pilgrimage from April 27, 1859, to his death.
The firm of Nelson and Harlow were engaged in the fishing trade, and Manomet and Sunbeam
(Grand-Bankers) were fitted out, washed out, and laid up for the winter at this wharf.
There was but one store-house on the wharf. Here were stored sails, running-rigging, and
cables, and all other equipment removed from the vessels for the winter lay-up.
They were interested in other shipping and there were two other schooners which came in at
times to be overhauled. these vessels did their part in the development of a great
business organization. The Hattie Western and the Hannah Coomer, built
originally for the cod and mackerel fisheries, were power seaboats and fast sailers. Their
two captains, Dexter Craig and John Parsons, both able seamen and great drivers, helped in
the beginning of the development of that corporation, the United Fruit Company. South
America, Puerto Rico, and Cuba were their ports, and from these ports they carried bananas
and coconuts. They went generally to Philadelphia, and sometimes to New York. As can be
seen from the logs of Captain Craigs vessel, the time made was remarkable. Only
close attention to weather conditions (and they had not the information of the present),
skill in seamanship, combined with high courage made it possible.
CARVERS WHARF
Carvers Wharf was built by Thomas Davis, who was granted permission by the town
of 1756. It was held in the Davis family until 1820, when William Davis, son of Thomas,
sold three-quarters to Joseph Bartlett and Nathaniel Carver. At this wharf Mr. Davis
and Mr. Carver carried on an extensive trade until 1881, when it was sold to Nathaniel
Harlow. Here the packets Atlanta, commanded at times by Truman Holmes and
Samuel H. Doten, and the Hector, commanded by Samuel Briggs, Bradford Barnes,
Edward Winslow Bradford, and John Darling Churchill, made their berths. Here the first
steam boat ever in Plymouth waters made a trip in 1818.
Daviss Ancient Landmarks, p. 193 |
In the memory of the writer there was little activity at this wharf. A
few fishing vessels laid up there during the winter, but the structure was in a state of
decay, foreign commerce had ended, and fishing was in a state of decline.
BARNES WHARF
Barnes Wharf is believed to have been built by Benjamin Barnes and was always owned by
the Barnes family. The packet Harriet, Samuel D. Holmes, master, sailed from this
wharf, clean and always attractive to passengers.
Daviss Ancient Landmarks, p. 294 |
During the last sixty years of its existence little was done at
Barnes Wharf. It finally went to destruction together with the other wharves along
the Plymouth water front. In the early seventies the fishing schooner George, the
property of Mr. Elkanah Finney, lay at this wharf during the winter. She was a pinki, the
only one that hailed from Plymouth in later years, although old fishermen at the wharves
told of another of an early date. They used to tell of her wonderful sailing qualities, of
her all round worth, and that she was a very able sea boat.
The pinki had a square stern, full bow, and the midship section was round as a barrel,
"pushing the whole Atlantic Ocean ahead of her," as one of the Captain Watsons
of Clarks Island expressed it. And one more description by a Plymouth captain was
"Going to windward she would hit a wave three times and go around it." But
pinkis had their place in their day. The owners made a good living, and the crews could
get along if shoemaking was good in the winter.
Well, we have written a good deal of Barnes Wharf, which even in the best days of
commerce and fishing was of little importance. But there is still one more story. From
this wharf was started and finished the last whaling voyage from Plymouth. It did
not go to the Pacific Ocean. The whale came ashore on Plymouth Beach, and some of the men
along the water front who had followed the sea as fishermen, began to visualize a profit
in this whale that was wasting on the beach. Two of the men had been somewhat wild until
past middle age, but had now reformed. One was running a little shop, and also making
spruce beer, the kind they used to put up in heavy stone bottles and tie in the stoppers
with a mackerel line. The other was a junk dealer, but both had become sober and
industrious, with a little money in the bank, and their credit good.
Together they started to strip the blubber from the whale and transport it to Barnes
Wharf. In the upper story of an old building on the wharf lived a family, the head an old
derelict who claimed he was once a whaler out of New Bedford. A big kettle was secured and
the try pot started. How the downfall of the two partners started is not known, but
trouble did start, and for a week there was fun on the dock. It was a show for the boys,
and as a result, two reformed men had lapsed, two small stores closed, two small savings
accounts were depleted, and ninety-six gallons of oil were obtained.
ROBBINS WHARF
Robbins Wharf was probably built by Thomas Davis in about 1760, and sold by his
heirs in 1809 to Samuel and Josiah Robbins. There were several packets which sailed from
this wharf.
Daviss Ancient Landmarks, p. 294 |
Around 1870 the wharf was known to the youths of the day as
Mortons Wharf. Captain James Morton seemed to control a bulkhead which ran from the
south side to Town Brook. For some years a fishing vessel used to tie up for the winter on
the north side, and the old sloop Boston, sailed by Captain Solomon Webquish, an
Indian from the west side of the Cape, also tied up there. The Boston carried
cord wood to Boston. The owner and captain would ground her on the beach south of
Plymouth, load at low water and, when the cargo was complete, sail for the port of
delivery.
Mr. James Norton was for many years a character, well-known and loved in Plymouth. He
was a sailor man, a fisherman, a vessel owner, a volunteer fireman, and a captain. He was
so deaf that it was difficult to make him hear and understand. He was an orator of note at
firemens musters. On the twenty-second of December (the twenty-first after the date
was changed), no man could wave the flag and honor the Pilgrims with greater pleasure than
Captain Jim Morton. He was not a great citizen, but a good one. He lived his life, and was
always kind to the boys of his day.
The wharf may be called Robbins or Mortons Wharf. either is correct, it being
just a question of age not of the wharf, but of the age of the men who used it or
the boys who fished off it. A bulkhead ran to the Town Brook and a road ran way back of
the buildings fronting on Water Street. Sometimes the packet schooner Anna T. Story,
sailed by Captain Bartlett lay there, but a more frequent visitor was a small schooner
that made frequent trips from Plymouth to Provincetown and Gloucester. Her name we do not
know, but she was painted pink. She carried a cargo of mackerel barrels and kits, a light
cargo even with a deck load.
This is the story of the last wharf on Water Street, and of an industry departed.
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